Early morning flights to Dalaman saw us enjoying cold beers and a light lunch in the bar overlooking the picturesque D-Marin by 1330 local time whilst we waited for our boat “Feeling Fine”, a Sun Odyssey 419, to be readied. Being situated so close to Dalaman, Gocek has 4 marinas these days and is a busy centre for yacht charters. We were with EGG Yachting who had a big fleet of c40 boats, they were very well organised and our handover was efficiently accomplished whilst victualling took place at the Migros, about a 10 minute walk away and then delivered almost before we got back. Dinner was taken at the oddly named Kebab Hospital and, with no one to play with, an early night given the early start.

We had to wait to be helped out of our berth (their rules) so slipped at 1020 for a long day of motoring, as little wind and a long trip ahead, out of the Bay of Fethiye and down past the Seven Capes to Kalkan, a distance of 47 miles. The harbour seemed full, but the harbour master kindly told a local gulet to move and we were able to squeeze into a very tight berth on the harbour wall. Whilst having our drinks, a Russian gentleman (there were a lot of Russians around) borrowed our corkscrew and managed to drop it in the water, consequently we were presented with a tin of pink caviar but were without an essential piece of boat equipment.

Kalkan is a very pretty town which sprawls up the hill from the harbour and comes alive as the sun sets and the lights re switched on. After an unsuccessful search for a corkscrew, we selected the evenings eatery based on their promise of giving us a corkscrew (we got 2) and we dined on a terrace overlooking the bay and enjoyed our first mezze of the trip as well as the first of many seafood meals. At TL 200, this was by far our most expensive dinner, but much wine was drunk and it’s not cheap. The exchange rate was very advantageous during the trip with around TL10 to a £ and most nights we ate and drunk well for around £20 each.

Monday we had to slip before 0900 as our anchor was over that of our very pleasant Dutch neighbours. Another hot and blue day (but lacking wind) as we motored further south. Our hot water hose had developed a leak and so we used the ancient Nokia phone supplied to call the charter company. They were surprised we were so far away and told us, with some alarm, that we were in Greek waters! On consulting the pilot book, we were amazed to find 3 small islands, very close to Turkey, which belong to Greece, including Kastellorizon, which has a small population.

We removed ourselves from the offending waters as fast as we could and continued towards Kekova Island avoiding the many rocks which litter the place. Our first swim and lunch stop at Tersane, punctuated by the comings and goings of many gulets disgorging their punters to splash around too. And just when life couldn’t get much better, along came the ice cream man and it was pistachio Magnums all round. 

Reluctantly weighed anchor and motored across to the small hamlet of Ucagiz and moored on the very well set up municipal quay. Within 20 minutes of arriving we were boarded by 2 men with a big box of hoses and our problem was sorted. The location basically services the gulet excursions and comprises the front with half a dozen restaurants and a street further back where life is still lived in a pretty primitive way. We chose Hussein’s restaurant where he, and his daughter fed us well, entertained and informed us and presented us with bracelets and red peppers.

A lazy morning at peace in this beautiful landlocked bay within a bay. No great distances planned so we put the headsail up and drifted north east past Kale Koy before anchoring in beautiful clear water in Gokkaya Limani for swimming and lunch. Interestingly the water was very mixed in temperature, presumably fed by cold springs. After lunch we were able to sail down the outside of Kekova Island before dropping our anchor in Woodhouse Bay and taking a line ashore as we were staying there overnight along with just 2 others. Dinner on board, much wine drunk and swimming took place, well into the night……. 

Another stunning morning to enjoy yet more swimming before motoring back west, this time keeping close to the Turkish coast. Another lovely swim and lunch stop in Bayinder Limani before screaming across the bay to try to get onto the town quay at Kas. The alternative would have been the new marina which is around a headland, probably an hour further on, plus an uphill walk into town. We were put alongside in a corner of the busy harbour in a berth which was to prove noisy overnight. Kas was the biggest place we visited and so we took the opportunity to replenish our food and drink stocks. Dinner was taken at the Blue House restaurant, and, similar to Kalkan, we were on the roof overlooking the wonderful view.

We had been warned by EGG Yachting that 22knots of wind were expected (which we couldn’t find in any forecast!) and, with the notoriously treacherous Seven Capes to navigate, we therefore obediently slipped at 0650 for the long drag motoring back up north.  The early hour did mean that we saw the sun come up over the mountains. Needless to say, the strong winds never materialised, and we were on a mooring buoy at Karoceran by 1430 for a late lunch and an afternoon of more swimming and relaxing. Although it had looked closed as we approached the restaurant proved to be a busy place and we were told to whistle when we wanted a water taxi to take us across which we duly did. An excellent meal from a short menu overlooking this pretty bay but it started to rain on the journey home! 

Our last day came only too soon and dawned cloudless, hot & sunny again. It had been suggested that we refuel and get our tanks pumped at lunchtime rather than later and so we motored and then sailed back into the Gulf of Fethiye to the fuel dock back in Gocek where all was quickly accomplished and we were able to head for Tomb Bay for a last lunch before enjoying a final slow run up under sail back to the marina. Again, they wanted to guide us into our berth and consequently a queue had formed. However, eventually we were back in our berth to be boarded by a small army of masked staff, each responsible for checking their own area, worked very well.

That night we ate the caviar before a final dinner in town. Disembarked by 0900 on Saturday and headed for breakfast. 1 crew member headed home whilst the rest of us extended our stay for 3 days at a very well-priced 5 bedroomed villa outside Fethiye. And guess what it lacked? A corkscrew!

Best bits: Kalkan and Kekova Roads, some fabulous swim stops, blue skies and sun

Downsides: Could have done with more wind, the berth in Kas and, of course, we much missed the fun and socialising with other HOEOCA boats