Our first time to Malta, the first time from Stansted and the first time that we had chartered 6 boats for the record breaking 36 attendees. How many more firsts could we achieve?

It was the first time that we had been met by, not one, but two men bearing a sign with my name offering a fleet of taxis or a bus. After much excitable conversation in Malti (the local language) I chose the coach on the grounds that my herd of 26 cats might at least all arrive together! Our second first of the day was that we had all been invited to a party on arrival, not every day the base manager organises his 50th birthday celebrations for our benefit.  Members will be glad to know that various HOEOCA merchandise was presented (and another tie less in stock).

Our plan to circumnavigate the 3 islands in a clockwise direction was scuppered by the weather forecast and so we headed out of the magnificent harbour, past Valletta, and tacked north in a pleasant sunny NW4/5 into St Pauls Bay where the big question was where to park? The only information we had available was the Admiralty chart of the area featuring a lot of sea and a very slim last chapter in Rod Heikells Italian Pilot which did not even have a chartlet of St Pauls. Oh, and a chart plotter that was mounted too low to read. Somehow our 6 boats managed to get themselves secured for the night on buoys of indeterminate ownership albeit 3 of us were off Bugibba and the other 3 at the head of the bay. Unfortunately some returning owners involved Rainbow Hunter and Leading Lady having to move! Our third first was the spectacular lightning and thunderstorm we enjoyed as we sat in our cockpits – not to say our relief that we had not ventured ashore for dinner when hit by extremely heavy rain and wind.

The storm made for a somewhat uncomfortable night and the morning dawned rather grey and damp with confused seas and wind blowing from our exact destination. An exhilarating motor sail followed – never so bad when the sun comes out and the sea is blue. As we approached Mgarr, now sheltered by the lee of the island, things calmed down somewhat and we all dodged the ferries and executed our first stern to mooring of the week. A pleasant afternoon was followed by a cocktail party first (the fourth) when we held it in what claimed to be the smallest yacht club in the Med. Basically a dear little hut on a pontoon. The Porto Vecchio Restaurant at the end of our pontoon beckoned most of us for dinner where we enjoyed great views and delicious food.

The weather had not calmed down by Tuesday and, whilst not technically storm bound, (we could have gone south), we wanted to see Gozo and so 5 of the 6 boats decided to stay put and explore the island by various means, mainly the hop on/off open top bus. The hardy crew of Fourten bravely decided to sail around the island and confirmed that mooring on the far side for the night as previously planned would not have been possible. Those of us that visited Dwerja, Marsalform and Ramla agreed as the lifeguards had the red flags out but nevertheless enjoyed the charms of these various places as well as seeing Victoria, the capital of Gozo which is topped by a spectacular citadel.

By Wednesday the sky was blue and clearer although the seas not fully settled. Time to head back south via the infamous Blue Lagoon on Comino which even at 1100 was full of tripper boats. Pleasant sail down-wind to St Julian’s Bay, described in the booklet we had acquired by now as “a very pleasant spot”. Considering that it was surrounded by flats and hotels this seemed a bit of an exaggeration but the location proved adequate for a lunch and swim stop. We had decided to go into Grand Harbour Marina that night although it was only adjacent to Kalkara from where we had originally sailed. The setting was somewhat more attractive, in fact spectacular, and the super yachts had to be seen to be believed. Our fifth first here though, the most expensive mooring fees ever on a Hot Hot Hot, our boat paid €126. For this we got 2 of 3 showers working and were charged water and electricity on top! Another complication was that the access fobs (deposit a mere €50) only allowed you on a single pontoon which made organising drinks on board Balthazar King interesting (but achieved nevertheless).

By now the weather had become more settled and we set off toward Marsaxlokk, according to the information provided, a pretty little fishing port at the southern end of the island. Most boats stopped on the way and anchored in limestone bays for lunch and swimming from where you could hardly see the chimney from the power station over the hill at all! On leaving this idyll we motored around into Marsaxlokk and tried to find a suitable point to anchor. Another first (the sixth) was that we had to avoid a horse being exercised in the harbour! Having failed to find anywhere in this hell hole we were advised by others who had arrived earlier to come and anchor off Birzebbugia, next to the container port, the seventh first, we haven’t done industrial chic before. Having said that, if you looked the other way it was OK and most boats spent most of the evening trying to work out the lights as the ships moved in and out. I also found a shop called Miracle Foods to supplement our meagre rations for dinner.

Our last day sailing and we spent as much time as possible in the aforementioned bays swimming, lunching and taking in as much sun as we could before returning to Kalkara for the inevitable debrief. Max and Balthazar King hosted a “bring what you have left” party before we were taken by bus to “Surfside” in Sliema (some family connection with the charterer owner) for our final meal together. For most, Saturday was an opportunity to see the sights of Valletta and beyond by ferry, bus, train and golf buggy as well as lots of walking.

Reflections – most of us don’t feel we need to return to Malta although are glad to have visited. It’s certainly not pretty and I was amazed at the density of population as were those who had visited before, mainly 30-40 years ago. It does however have more history packed into its compact size than anywhere else I have been. The food is very good and not expensive given the location and everyone speaks English. As a yachting area there are improvements to be made.

Jude

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And now from another first, a French Virgin

The first thing I found out being part of the Hot Hot Hot Malta 2016 as a « virgin »:  making sure that gin and tonic will be in sufficient quantity for 6 persons is a must. Some of us got 2 litres of  Gordon's for €30 in Duty Free. Prior to the trip, useful documents had been sent to us, like the crew list, and we had been exchanging by mail. Arriving at Valletta one day before the departure saturday September 17/, we had diner at Don Berto,  Birgu Waterfront, overlooking the harbour under a nice breeze. On saturday night we were all invited to a party for the Malta Charters  manager 54th birthday.  We all gathered on the pontoon with sweet music, drinks, generous food and good company. We were joined later by the rest of the HOEOCA crew.  Dufour 410 and  Bavaria 42 were among the boats rented from Malta Charters and their promise was « crystal blue waters and the warm Mediterranean Sun ».

What I immediately noticed and loved is the fantastic  cooperation and «esprit d'équipe» that can be found on a boat. Everybody tries to do his part. The wind made us change our plans and we sailed by The East Coast: Sliema, St Julians, St Paul’s Bay. Finding the right anchor is the big affair on a boat.   We zapped Mellieha Bay, and found better bays to anchor and swim.  We had one morning of tough sea and wind.  We were assisted berthing in Mgarr, Gozo, thanks to the organisation. It was decided to stay two days. It allowed us to have delicious lampricki fish and other local delicacies at the Porto Vecchio restaurant facing the harbour. A memorable bus trip around Gozo did not allow us to see much of the historical monuments. We missed  Ta'Pinu Basilique but had a glimpse of the spectacular Dwejra cliffs. Our other desillusion was : no fish except in the restaurants !  Swimming in the turquoise Blue Lagoon of Comino is so much better from a boat than from the crowded small beach. The most difficult thing for me was to gracefully go down into the water, how come these passerelles do not go with convenient handles? A big bruise the first day! But later I noticed I was not the only one!  Malta is remarkable for its rocky beaches, caves and cliffs, a James Bond like decor.  Add a yacht and you expect to see Sean Connery coming out of Blue Grotto with a mask and weapon.

What I like about sailing is that it makes you forget the rest of the world much more than a usual « holiday trip ». What I loved most of all  is British humour that was shared by everyone on our boat What a friend. The art of conversation was enhanced by Nina's audacious questions to all of us, a lot of fun and laughters !

Janique

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Captains Log Hot Hot Hot – Rainbow Hunter – Malta 2016

Sun 18th Sept Kalkerra Marina to St Pauls Bay

Picked up mooring buoy – ejected from mooring buoy, spent the night at anchor, with a stern attached to buoy to stop us swinging into the rocks.

Mon 19th Sept St Pauls Bay - Gozo - Mgarr Marina

Mainsail with 2 reefs from St Paul’s to Mgarr on Gozo. Invited to try yacht origami where you fold a 42ft Bavaria into a berth designed for a Pico. The crew were very supportive once they’d stopped laughing…..

Tues 20th Sept – Gozo - Mgarr Marina

The crew spent the day doing their own thing. Sporty youngsters (Julie and Malcolm) terrorised the Gozoans on a quad bike, Mary and Alan used their bus passes to circumnavigate the island, the skipper cadged a lift and sailed around Gozo on Tony Brinkworth’s boat. The evening meal involved emptying the immediate Maltese seabed and feeding its contents to the crew.

Wed 21st Sept – Gozo - Mgarr Marina to Grand Harbour Valetta via St Julian’s Bay

A gentle sail / motor to St Julian’s Bay where we anchored for lunch, had a swim and attempted to take out the lights on St Julian’s by picking up a large cable with the anchor. Malcolm was dispatched over the side to lick his fingers and see if the cable was live. Some nifty crew work secured the cable, retrieved the anchor and allowed us get under way to our next adventure. Grand Harbour Valetta.

After meticulously setting the boat up for lazy line mooring, we encountered finger pontoons. What followed was a dance of such grace with a 42ft Bavaria that Len Goodman (strictly come dancing judge) would have awarded a seven on the spot. Some crew members cruelly nicknamed the maneuvers a ‘hokey kokey’ port side in, stern side out, swap the fenders over and shake it all about…. As you can imagine this was hurtful to the handsome young virgin skipper. And so the sun set on another day in a beautiful Grand Harbour setting. With the picture showing the crew drinking to forget….

Thurs 22nd Sept – Grand Harbour Valetta to Marsaxlokk / Birzebugga

A gentle sail, followed by a swim and lunch in a pretty cove, prepared Rainbow Warrior (sorry Hunter) for the beautiful fishing village,  – Marsaxlokk where we were to anchor overnight.

As we approached Marsaxlokk the sun was receding, glinting beautifully on the oil tanks, and casting stunning shadows from the container base derricks. Old met new as the historic fort on the headland appeared to have a large chimney smoking in the midst of its keep. You have an idea of how beautiful this was based on the pictures provided.

Fri 23rd Sept – Marsaxlokk / Birzebugga to Grand Harbour Valetta

The return journey back to Valetta reminded the crew of how beautiful the Harbour is. This last leg of our journey around Malta ended with an excellent mooring maneuver……. carried out by one the yacht leasing company’s employees.

Our trip was capped with a buggy convoy specifically setup to annoy the local drivers. Some of the sights we saw were on a par with some of the more beautiful parts of the UK such as Sparkhill in Birmingham, Brixton in London and Toxteth in Liverpool.

Others showed the beautiful, historic side of Valetta.

 Thanks to you all for a really entertaining rally, covering 51 sea miles over the six days we were sailing.

Mark

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