A record breaking 32 members signed up for our first Hot Hot Hot back to Croatia since 2004. Consequently, with the help of an EasyJet flight from Luton and a half hour transfer from Split airport in a thunderstorm, we arrived at the outstandingly well-appointed Marina Frapa in Rogoznica at 2000 on Saturday 5th September. We were transported to Pontoon 8 (quite a long trek!) on an elongated golf trolley and were soon settling in on our 5 Dufours – Calando, Animato, Vivo, Adagio and the unmusical Nika. A convenient Pizza restaurant at the end of the pontoon provided, well, pizza, salads and cold beer & wine for our much needed first night’s dinner.

On Sunday morning, handovers were effected by the very efficient & pleasant staff from Ban Tours, victualling was carried out by those appointed and a taxi was taken to ACI Kremik Marina to buy the necessary passes to enter the Kornati Islands, a designated National Park, which we were sailing around for the week. Lying about 11 miles off, and parallel to, the mainland, there are over 100 rocky islands which are made up of shell limestone but with little vegetation, the landscape is lunar in quality. The islands are uninhabited save those who run the small seasonal restaurants that we used throughout the week.

Most boats were away by midday(ish) and we variously sailed/motor sailed the 25 miles north west to the Kornati. Our first night destination was Uvala Opat on the southern tip of the main island where I had managed to book us all into the restaurant before leaving the UK. We were able to swim off the tiny beach and some managed the climb up the hill to look over at Zut, tomorrow’s destination, and lots of the various islands. We dined on 2 long tables, a 14 and a 18 and enjoyed mixed local starters and very fresh fish baked in the oven with herbs and potatoes plus lots of the local wine – and a stunning view.

Against any expectation, the wind got up during the night and there were more fenders squeaking than we’d have liked plus a brisk wind blowing into our bay. After some debate and consultation with Wind Guru (which forecast diminishing winds) we decided to poke our noses out in the direction of the island of Zut and all enjoyed a lovely sail and our first proper lunch-stop in Uvala Hiljaca where Ken managed a swim & beer on all 4 boats present, a record I am told. A stimulating beat round the corner to ACI Marina Zut followed where we enjoyed the showers, electricity and water lacking the previous night although the later 2 essentials were only available during stipulated hours, the problem with hopping around uninhabited islands. Due to the number of people on this trip we had abandoned the traditional boat by boat cocktail party so, instead, assembled on the pontoon for a BYO version before dining at the marina restaurant as separate tables.

Adagio had developed an engine problem and so had to stay behind on Tuesday morning for a proper diagnosis by Anton in his RIB and all black outfit and ended up having to detour to Murter for a proper repair. Luckily they reported that Murter was a very nice place to visit anyway. The remaining 4 boats took a deep breath and squeezed through the very narrow passage between Kornat and Dugi to spend our 3rd night in the sensational Laka Telascia, a large natural harbour about 4NM in length. Again, this area has been designated a National Park. On this occasion we ended up mainly apart, variously at anchor or on buoys in sheltered waters and all enjoyed the peace and the fact that an ice cream boat came around at an hour when you were just wishing for a Magnum! In fact, on Animato the following morning, we were just wishing for fresh bread and Toni turned up with the nicest loaves we had all week.

Otok (Island) Dugi marked the northern most point of the trip. The following morning we left the tranquillity to head back toward Otok Kornati. The wind was light and from the south (of course) but Animato managed to sail, albeit slowly, into the most wonderfully tranquil lunch stop before heading to another ACI Marina at Piskera, even though it’s on Otok Panitula! Here we were all moored in a line, including Adagio, so much boat hopping for drinks, nibbles and catching up took place. Dinner that night was taken in the restaurant which bore a striking similarity to that of the ACI Marina 2 nights prior. In fact the whole marina layout was very similar and the price the same although for cold showers this time. For our boat this was 483 Kuna (c£46) - expensive but not quite as bad as we had feared.

Given that the weather overall had not been quite as hot & sultry as I’d ordered (!) we changed our final nights destination from another Island in the Kornati Park to Otok Zirje which divided up the return passage more evenly. Our 5 HOEOCA boats peeled off the pontoon in exemplary fashion and then encountered winds well in excess of those forecast. Having reefed on our boat we then enjoyed a lovely sail between the islands and arrived at Uvala Tratinska mid-afternoon and picked up one of the conveniently laid buoys. Another beautiful spot. When asked, the only restaurant we could see provided a water taxi for dinner which 3 of us enjoyed whilst the other 2 boats ate on board.

Our last day dawned light grey & pretty windless (and without a bread-man) and so the final leg was accomplished slowly drifting and under some gentle motoring to a last lunch stop and back into the lovely Marina Frapa. After a week away seeing large (?) amounts of houses and shops was quite a shock.  We had dinner together in the hotel restaurant which worked well once we had moved tables, explained the concept of bills by boat and applied a bit of HOEOCA charm to the ex-communist waiters! Saturday was spent lying by the pretty luxurious pool. Walking across the causeway to the old town and (by some) taking a trip to Trogir. And then it was back on the bus for possibly the prettiest transfer in the world before a flight back to possibly the least pretty airport in the UK

The best bits – the service provided by BAN Tours. really getting away from it all, spending 2 nights on peaceful anchorages/buoys, the lunar beauty of the Kornatis, the colour of the sea, the well-appointed Marina Frapa and the ice cream boat. Only downsides – for me, could have been warmer and I’d have liked longer.